C250C Hond twin starts & dies?
82 Hon 250 twin 8900 miles. Bought non running. Removed,drained & cleaned tank,fuel vlv & carb. Found no corrosion, very little sediment. Fresh fuel,12V & set choke. Starts (sometimes) dies. Runs one second by adding fuel to carb bowel. Idle circuit plugged or adjustment? Other possibilites? Snorkel rubber soft,no tears or splits.
Hi, does it run on choke, should run for about 3 – 5 minutes. then take off choke if it dies it sounds like your primary jets&
passages may be plugged. If it is running or dripping fuel out of the overflow tubes like Sandmaster said you may have
needle/seat problems. anyway good luck & happy rideing;)
Oh yes you should pre-set your air fuel screws 1&1/2 turns from closed . then after it warms up adjust them to highest/smothest range your idle speed should be 1,200rpm
at the pre-set mix;)
September 2nd, 2009 at 6:42 pm
Sounds like "needle&seat" in carb.stuck.Or the diaphram on top of carb. is cracked or has a hole in it.Sticky floats.
References :
September 2nd, 2009 at 7:30 pm
Hi, does it run on choke, should run for about 3 – 5 minutes. then take off choke if it dies it sounds like your primary jets&
passages may be plugged. If it is running or dripping fuel out of the overflow tubes like Sandmaster said you may have
needle/seat problems. anyway good luck & happy rideing;)
Oh yes you should pre-set your air fuel screws 1&1/2 turns from closed . then after it warms up adjust them to highest/smothest range your idle speed should be 1,200rpm
at the pre-set mix;)
References :
September 2nd, 2009 at 7:51 pm
If the bike had sat with any fuel in it for a length of time, then consider that the fuel system has varnish sitting inside of virtually everything. You mentioned you cleaned the carb (by taking it entirely apart and meticulously cleaning it, I assume).
I’ve had this issue with a lawn mower engine that sat for *10* years with old fuel in it. I did what you’ve already done but made damn sure the carb was gutted and cleaned thoroughly and set according the the maker’s spec. If your carb has any diaphragms inside, replace them. They can be inspected for holes by placing them directly under lilght; any tiny holes that can be seen means the diaphragm is uselss and should be replaced. Also, clean or replace the fuel and air filters.
Next, I’d tackle the idle adjustment screws; the main needle and floats should be OK if the were not damaged (the mainjet needle should be sharply tipped, with no distortion or bends) to start with and cleaned properly. First drive the idle screw all the way (but not too tightly) in and then back it out 1 and 1 quarter turn. Crank the engine and see what happens. Continue backing out the idle screw a quarter turn at a time as needed.
Also make sure that you’re using a proper, and new, spark plug and hi-tension lead. Check the spark by placing the plug on the block and crank the engine; you should see a healthy spark. This will at least eliminate the ignition system as the culprit.
References :